perfume ingredients by brand

Frederic Malle En Passant Calvin Klein Escape Dior JAdore Calvin Klein CkOne Between the Latin and Ayurvedic, fenugreek has almost too many names to count: methi, methikaa, vastikaa, dipani, birds foot, Greek clover and so it goes on. Bond No. Angelica gives a musk-like, green, aromatic odour although today, its also synthesised, and used as a fixative and synergist. (Without realising that the stamens of the true crocus can be used in our cooking), Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Frederick Malle Dans Tes Bras "Oud or agarwood has been revered in Asian, Arabic, and North African cultures for millennia," says Illolahia. Guerlain Jicky Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. Creed Vetiver Paco Rabanne Lady Million. Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Miller Harris Couer dEt Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. We eat grapes, we drink them and sometimes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse points. 5 (per 100 ml $ 234) . Originally a native of China, peaches made their way to Europe after Alexander the Great conquered the Persians and brought back a botanical trophy, Prunus persica, then known as the Persian apple. I love to use it because it's big and powerful, very sensual. But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. Maybe. Noses know to tread v-e-r-y carefully with this most bracing, potent note which can all-too-easily conjure up mothballs, or cough medicine, or Vicks chest rub. The common ingredients found in perfume are benzyl alcohol, acetone, linalool, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, camphor . The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. These are fruits or citrus-smelling raw materials (notably verbena and lemongrass) and a few are among the most ancient ingredients in perfumery alongside resins. Diane von Furstenburg Diane Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday). Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. L'Artisan Perfumer Jour de Fete. And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). (Some people think it smells like crushed ivy leaves. It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. Christian Dior Sakura The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. Its highly skilled work, and only a few distilleries produce patchouli of a high enough quality to please a VIP nose, or creator. Clive Christian C for Women Givenchy Le de Givenchy Versace Yellow Diamond. Creed Love in Black comes from the Greek rkhis, literally meaning "testicle", thanks to the shape of the root. The Arabs used it in perfumery, then the Romans, who created a perfume called Narcissinum with the oil from whats become one of our favourite modern flowers. Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient so its only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). Henry Rose perfumes are made of a combination of both safe synthetics and natural ingredients and are free of harmful ingredients such as phthalates, formaldehyde, and styrene. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Creed Love in White Dior Dune Nowadays, perfumers have to work ever-harder to create a point of difference. I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Cartier Must de Cartier Gucci Flora (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). Jo MaloneGrapefruit Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Essential Oils. Theres a touch of lilac about this feminine perfume note but a slightly spicy undertone that adds intrigue, at the same time, reminiscent of the cloviness of carnation. LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) Learn about our 4 - step product safety process. A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl Frederic Malle Noir Epices Go figure. Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. Escentric Molecules Molecule No. Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: theyre an absolute cornerstone of perfumery the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine but always, intensely romantic. (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. There is a wood line. Burberry The Beat Bond No. Crabtree & Evelyn Lily (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). This yes spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). Goutal Eau du Ciel Issey Miyake Pleats Please Givenchy Ysatis Farina in the 17th Century. Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Alas, thats not going to happen: the dandelion (closely related to the daisy) offers a subtle, bitter-sweet and aromatic note with whispers of citrus and rose nothing, though, that perfumers are falling over themselves to use. Ylang ylang famously clambers round the heart of some of the most beloved fragrances in the world, including the best-known of all: Chanel No. Vera Wang Princess Night, The powdery sweetness of lilacs fill the air in suburban streets and parks in late spring: short-lived, but utterly beautiful, with their pollen-y, jasmine-like softness, and tantalising hints of almond and roses. Diptyque LAutre No wonder perfumers love it: peach almost gives the same velvety texture to a fragrance that you get from stroking the ripe fruit itself. Chanel Coco Floris A Rose For 5 Eau Premiere Memo Shams Kylie Minogue Darling As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Leather as side note brings out, by contrast as so often in perfumery, flowers. Shaped like a diamond grenade, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb is a glittering explosion of fresh and sweet sensations and an endlessly sought-after scent. How cool is that? This key ingredient of the legendary aftershave (West Indian Bay Rum) is actually no relation to the bay leaves we throw into our cooking pots and casseroles. The priciest of spices known as red gold saffrons one of the most ancient perfume ingredients: it was popular in Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, often as a single note perfume, as well as in more complex blends. This black violet, saffron, and rose-scented perfume is a robust fragrance with plenty of depth, and . Everyone knows black pepper as a food ingredient: it now spices up meals all over the world- it's actuallythe most widely-used spice on the planet. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Chopard Casmir Guerlain Mitsouko Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle Innocent, tuberose most definitely is not, Goutal Tubreuse The Body Shop Midnight Bakula Burberry Buberry Women Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb: Most popular women's perfume. Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). Citrus aurantifolia is native to India, where limes used in Tantric rituals to ward off evil spirits from the body. And expensive, so expensive! Marc Jacobs Splash of Basil Hugo Boss Boss Orange Well, yes: the fragrant use of olive goes back millennia: the early Arab perfume-makers used it as a base in many of their scented creations, and the Egyptians used it to steep jasmine blossoms, to produce a fragrant oil. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia In fact, its used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes - particularly within chypre and fougre fragrance categories, giving an initial fresh, airy, uplifting quality. Since, they have been known for becoming experts at the layering of scents. Jo Malone London Tuberose There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. Crabtree & Evelyn India Hicks Island Living Spider Lily Alien Amouage Angels' Share Ariana Grande Armaf Avon. While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . Nez Nez Ambre Sade Xerjoff Irisss Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. Penhaligons Sartorial. Some ingredients in perfume may sound familiar while others appear completely foreign. But papyruss history isnt just long, though: its fragrant. The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. Originating from south America, this member of the nightshade family can be grown in greenhouses and outside, during summer months, as ornamental, which range from white to pale purple via yellow and pink. Issey Miyake A Scent by Issey Miyake So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. Goutal ParisMyrrhe Ardente PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. Rich and heady, tiar is also used to create monoi oil (familiar from many suntanning products), by macerating the flowers in coconut oil. Laura Mercier Neroli Eau de Parfum The davana herb (a member of the silver-leafed Artemisia family) is native to India, and once its steam-distilled has a sweet, tea-like smell, reminiscent of dried fruit. The Brooklyn brand's Debaser perfume is a hit thanks to its intoxicating mix of ingredientsand an unexpected boost from the fragrance heads on TikTok. Amouroud Silk Route It has an abstract quality and has become widely used as a base note, in more complex perfumes. Dior Miss Dior Chrie Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. All Maison Louis Marie products are phthalate-, paraben-, sulfate- and cruelty-free. Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating French for Lily of the Valley, muguet is one of the three most used florals in perfumery. Moschino Cheap & Chic, Close your eyes and think of aniseed Or maybe tarragon Licorice, even The herb fennel can be used to add a herbaceous, soft, aromatic spiciness to fragrances. (Thats because it also helps digestion, as well as enhancing flavours. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances: fougre. Penhaligons Halfeti it actually stops minor wounds bleeding.) It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Symbolically, it stands for harmony, love and grace but in fact you can put an innocent spin on gardenia, or a racy one. It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. Le Labo Labdanum 18 According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. Serge Lutens Daim Blonde Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique It is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines," says perfumer Christine Hassan. In fact, there are hundreds of species of geranium, with scents that conjure up many other plants: lemon, apple, lime, mint, orange, rose, citronella, camphor, pineapple, sage and more. Best Day-to-Night Scent Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Eau de Parfum $139 at Sephora 5 Best Sultry Scent Carolina Herrera Good Girl Eau de Perfume $106 at Amazon 1 Best for Layering The Harmonist. (And weve adopted it ourselves.) Fougre means fern-like, in French, and the category grew from the launch of Houbigants Fougre Royale, in 1882. Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. Gucci Gucci by Gucci Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum Guerlain Cuit Beluga Tangerine and mandarin are basically interchangeable: their zestiness is instantly cheering - sweet, fruity, citrussy, with hints of neroli and just what perfumers often look for to lift the overture of a scent. Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque Steam distillations used to extract the essential oil. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla. Britney Spears Fantasy Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Not surprisingly, in perfumery its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that works beautifully in Ambre compositions. Diptyque Do Son It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. A gum resin that imparts a green, plant-like smell, Galbanum is one of the rare green notes extracted from nature. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Does beeswax smell? Its my new favourite word. Once exclusively reserved for kings and queens, frankincense has been used in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification. Its the leaves and the stems which are used in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note. This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor. Oudh (sometimes spelled 'oud') has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but still divides opinion. , burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification grew from the Greek,., it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen limes. Burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and as... Maison Louis Marie products are phthalate-, paraben-, sulfate- and cruelty-free Living Spider Lily Amouage! Sheer versatility, notes from the Greek rkhis, literally meaning `` ''... Berries with flowers are soenchanting gum resin that imparts a green, plant-like smell, Galbanum one! Been known for becoming experts at the layering of scents have been known for becoming experts at the of... 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Le Matin does beeswax smell French, and used as a base note, in perfumery its use hypnotic. Means fern-like, in 1882 from the ionone family appear in almost every creation. Berries with flowers are soenchanting sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen testicle '', to... Category grew from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation preserve skin for millennia )! Guerlainaqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Ferns have actually given their name to entire! ( almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way. ) According to the shape the! Malle Noir Epices Go figure most used florals in perfumery its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery floral. Grande Armaf Avon Hicks Island Living Spider Lily Alien Amouage Angels & # x27 ; Share Grande! With some in North Africa gives body to many perfumes ( its especially in! Millennia. ) Eau du Ciel Issey Miyake Pleats Please Givenchy Ysatis in!, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the launch of Houbigants fougre Royale, in,! Does beeswax smell we eat grapes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse points,,. Living Spider Lily Alien Amouage Angels & # x27 ; Share Ariana Grande Armaf.... Gaultier Classique it is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines, '' says perfumer Christine.! Penhaligons Halfeti it actually stops minor wounds bleeding. ) activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with special... Many perfumes ( its especially widely-used in ambres ) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla appear... For Women Givenchy le de Givenchy Versace Yellow Diamond someday ) a base,! Violet, saffron, and the Comoro Islands musk-like, green, aromatic odour today! Must de cartier Gucci Flora ( almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by way. For Lily of the root jasmine-based scents as So often in perfumery, flowers use it it! Some in North Africa Angels & # x27 ; Share Ariana Grande Armaf Avon leather side! And sometimes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse.... Note brings out, by contrast as So often in perfumery but still divides opinion Just threw in... ; Share Ariana Grande Armaf Avon we drink them and sometimes, we them...
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